METHOD OF ASSESSING THE INCREASE IN PROFICIENCY IN SPORTS ROCK CLIMBING
Abstract
In the framework of this study, based on the analysis of official international competitions in rock climbing, the nature of the relationship between the increase in proficiency and time is determined; mathematical models of progress for men and women have been built, a new metric scale has been developed and new units for measuring the complexity of a route in sports lead climbing have been proposed. The relevance of the study is driven by the need to move away from outdated methods of assessing the progress of athletes on rock climbing routes, and by the transition to new methods based on data from modern competitions.
The aim of the study is to develop mathematical models for assessing the increase in proficiency in the discipline of sports lead climbing. Problems that require solving: the possibility of obtaining an operational assessment of the overall increase in proficiency in the world; a comparison of individual athlete indicators with global trends and the possibility of their forecasting. The study used analytical data from the stages of the world cups, world championships and the Olympic Games for the period from 2012 to 2024. Methods: video analysis of competitions, clustering, correlation, regression.
Based on the data analysis, proficiency increase models, allowing us to calculate the required assessment using fundamentally new units of measurement for rock climbing, have been built. Global increase rates have been established using the data from the competitive practice of rock climbers. As a result of the research, a methodology for assessing the proficiency increase in the discipline of sports lead climbing has been developed, mathematical models allowing us the degree of progress of rock climbers to be expressed in a quantitative format have been built.
Downloads
References
Ваваев А.В. Физические и физиологические характеристики элитного скалолаза. М.: ЦСТСК, 2019. 130 с.
Ворожейкин, А. В. Этап начальной спортивной подготовки девушек, специализирующихся в виде спорта рукопашный бой, в контексте требований федерального стандарта / А. В. Ворожейкин, П. И. Тюпа, А. П. Волков // Здоровье человека, теория и методика физической культуры и спорта. – 2020. – № 2(18). – С. 99-114.
Котченко Ю. В. Сложное лазание: Теория соревновательного процесса. Симферополь: Научный мир, 2018. 288 с.
Кудря О. Н. Развитие координационных способностей скалолазов 14-15 лет с использованием технических средств // Физкультурное образование Сибири. 2020. № 1(43). C. 39–42.
Селютина Н. А. Теоретический анализ факторов, влияющих на результативность юных скалолазов в соревновательной деятельности // Современные методы организации тренировочного процесса, оценки функционального состояния и восстановления спортсменов: материалы Всероссийской научно-практической конференции, Челябинск. 2017. C. 227–229.
Шунько А. В. Видео анализ соревновательной деятельности как способ контроля тактической, технической и физической подготовленности квалифицированных скалолазов, специализирующихся в лазании на скорость // Ученые записки университета им. П. Ф. Лесгафта. 2020. № 3(181). C. 491–496.
Assessing the efficacy of an experimental strength and conditioning program for professional mixed martial arts athletes / I. Davidenko, A. Bolotin, E. Pronin [et al.] // Journal of Physical Education and Sport. – 2024. – Vol. 24, No. 1. – P. 36-43. – DOI 10.7752/jpes.2024.01005.
Cardiorespiratory and anthropometric parameters in athletes across various sports / E. Romanova, A. Vorozheikin, A. Metalnikov [et al.] // Journal of Physical Education and Sport. – 2024. – Vol. 24, No. 8. – P. 1868-1874. – DOI 10.7752/jpes.2024.08207. – EDN GLQFZS.
Comprehensive evaluation of the functional state in senior schoolchildren with varying levels of daily motor activity / A. Martusevich, I. Bocharin, A. Eshiev [et al.] // Journal of Physical Education and Sport. – 2024. – Vol. 24, No. 11. – P. 1919-1926. – DOI 10.7752/jpes.2024.11288.
Schoolchildren's motivation to increase motor activity using the footbag freestyle game / N. Mischenko, M. Kolokoltsev, E. Romanova [et al.] // Journal of Physical Education and Sport. – 2021. – Vol. 21, No. 5. – P. 2657-2663. – DOI 10.7752/jpes.2021.05354.
Taylor N., Giles D., Panáčková M., et al. A Novel tool for the assessment of sport climbers' movement performance // International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. 2020. 15(6). P. 795–800. DOI: 10.1123/ijspp.2019-0311
An author should not normally publish manuscripts describing essentially the same research in multiple journals or publication venues. Such redundant publication is generally considered to constitute unethical publishing behavior, and if discovered may result in a manuscript under consideration being rejected, or a published article being retracted.
Authors of manuscripts reporting on original research should present an accurate account of the work performed, accompanied by an objective discussion of its significance. Underlying data should be represented accurately in the manuscript. The manuscript should contain sufficient detail and references to permit others to replicate the work. The fabrication of results and the making of fraudulent or knowingly inaccurate statements constitute unethical behavior and may be cause for rejection or retraction of a manuscript or published article.
