ROCK CLIMBING COACHES ATTITUDE TO DEVELOPMENT GRIP STRENGTH
Abstract
The study examines using tools and methods by coaches to develop grip strength in climbers at various stages of training, specializing in difficulty and bouldering. Questionnaire used as research method. 63 rock climbing coaches from 27 Russian cities took part in the survey. Established that as athletes become more prepared, coaches provide a larger volume of special exercises to develop grip strength. Most coaches prefer using fingerboard, campusboard, and special exercises at the climbing wall. Working with high level athletes more experienced coaches more often use special exercises to develop grip strength. Most popular method to develop grip strength is the mean time to failure. According to trainers, the limiting factor for climbers is forearms muscles development of strength endurance. It is necessary to include at least 15% volume of exercises aimed to developing grip strength from the total volume of training for top-level rock climbers.
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