QUALIMETRIC ANALYSIS OF MISTAKEN ACTIONS OF THE CLIMBER DURING THE PASSING OF THE COMPETITIVE ROUTE
УДК 796.526
Abstract
The article presents the results of studies devoted to the analysis of erroneous actionsof the climber at the time of passing the competitive route. During the three competitive seasonsof 2016–2018 the performances of women at major international tournaments in the disciplineof difficulty climbing were studied (n = 631). Studies have revealed the main errors made duringthe climbing, to classify them, to determine the signs of controlled and uncontrolled errors. It wasestablished that the controlled errors do not have a noticeable direct impact on the result, but havea negative impact on the main spatial and temporal characteristics of climbing.A fundamentally new method of quantitative assessment of technical and tactical errors hasbeen developed, based on the use of the time factor of erroneous actions. Calculations made usingthe new method that the average error rate for champions is 0.28 points, for prize-winners is 0.40,and for athletes taking a place below the 20th is 1.6 points. During the analysis of the collected data,the of connection with the result of the performance R = 0.81 was established and the nature of thedependence of this relationship was determined.The regression model is constructed, which allows to calculate the standard error value dependingon the length of the passed section and determine its location in the overall of the competitive process.The knowledge of the error value makes it possible to conduct a complete analysis of the sportsperformance, the lost part of the competitive as a result of the error and adjust the training processin order to minimize erroneous actions.
Downloads
References
Гершкович В.А. и др. Возникновение повторяющихся ошибок в процессе сенсомоторного научения и способы их коррекции // Вестник Санкт-Петербургского университета. 2013. №3 (16). С. 43–53.
Гиринская А.Ю. Когнитивные ошибки с позиции тренера и спортсмена // Право. Экономика. Психология. 2017. №3 (8). С. 72–78.
Главные ошибки начинающих и опытных скалолазов. 2017. URL: https://4sport.ua/articles?id=28551 (дата обращения 18.06.2020).
Елисеев Е.В. и др. Методика выявления и устранения ошибочных действий в соревновательных поединках айкидоистов 13–15 лет стиля тенсинкай // Вестник ЮУрГУ. 2012. №21. С. 123–126.
Котченко Ю.В. Сложное лазание: теория соревновательного процесса. Симферополь : Научный мир, 2018. 288 с.
Программа анализа прохождения соревновательной трассы. 2020. URL: https://vk.com/lead_ climbing?w=wall-195160693_2 (дата обращения: 09.04.2020).
Селецкий А., Мельник Е. Обоснование контроля ошибочных действий спортсменов пятиборцев в процессе тренировочной и соревновательной деятельности // Молода спортивна наука України. 2013. №1. С. 228–234.
Чугреев И. Базовые ошибки в скалолазании. 2015. URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v= r0w5gyYq4_8 (дата обращения: 14.12.2019).
Orth D., Davids K. and Seifert, L. (2016). Coordination in climbing: effect of skill, practice and constraints manipulation. Sports Med.Vol. 46, Pp. 255–268. DOI: 10.1007/s40279–015–0417–5.
Ozimek M., et al. (2016) Analysis of tests evaluating sport climbers' strength and isometric endurance. J Hum Kinet. Vol. 53, Pp. 249–260. DOI:10.1515/hukin-2016–0027 PMID: 28149428.
Reason J.T. (2000) Human error: models and management. Western Journal of Medicine. Vol. 172, Pp. 393–396.
Watts P.B., et al. (2016). Geometric entropy for lead vs top-rope rock climbing. Int.J. Exerc. Sci. Vol. 9, Pp. 168–174.
REFERENCES
Volkov D. N., et al. (2013). Correction of cognitive errors in highly qualified athletes. Sports psychologist, Vol. 1 (28). Pp. 32–39 (in Russian).
Ershkovich V. A. (2013). The occurrence of repeated errors in the process of sensorimotor learning and methods for their correction. Bulletin of St. Petersburg University, 16 (3), 43–53 (in Russian).
Girinskaya A.Yu. (2017). Cognitive errors from the position of a coach and athlete. Law. Economy. Psychology, 3 (8), 72–78 (in Russian).
The main mistakes of beginners and experienced climbers (2017). Access mode: https://4sport.ua/articles?id=28551 (Accessed 28 June 2019).
Eliseev E.V. (2012). Methodology for identifying and eliminating of erroneous actions in competitive duels of aikidoists 13–15 years of the Tensinkai style. Bulletin of SUSU, 21, 123–126 (in Russian).
Ivanova N.A. (2006). Surprising adventures of steady mistakes in the process of learning. Experimental psychology of cognition: the cognitive logic of the conscious and unconscious: — collection of scientific works. St. Petersburg: St. Petersburg State University. Pp. 123–134 (in Russian).
Kotchenko U.V. Complex climbing: the theory of the competitive process. Simferopol: Scientific world, 2018. 288 p (in Russian).
The program of the analysis of passing of a competitive route. (2019). Access mode: https://vk.com/lead_climbing?w=wall-195160693_2 (Accessed 9 April 2019).
Siletsky A., Melnik Е. (2013). Justification for the control of the erroneous actions of athletespentathletes in the process of training and competitive activity. Young sports science of Ukraine, 1, 228–234 (in Russian).
Chugreev I. Basic mistakes in climbing. (2015). Access mode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0w5gyYq4_8 (Accessed 14 December 2019).
Orth D., Davids K., and Seifert, L. (2016). Coordination in climbing: effect of skill, practice and constraints manipulation. Sports Med., 46, 255–268. DOI: 10.1007/s40279–015–0417–5
Ozimek M., et al. (2016) Analysis of tests evaluating sport climbers' strength and isometric endurance. J Hum Kinet, 53, 249–260. DOI:10.1515/hukin-2016–0027 PMID: 28149428.
Reason J.T. (2000) Human error: models and management. Western Journal of Medicine, 172, 393–396.
Watts P.B., et al. (2016). Geometric entropy for lead vs top-rope rock climbing. Int. J. Exerc. Sci., 9, 168–174.
Copyright (c) 2020 Health, physical culture and sports
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
An author should not normally publish manuscripts describing essentially the same research in multiple journals or publication venues. Such redundant publication is generally considered to constitute unethical publishing behavior, and if discovered may result in a manuscript under consideration being rejected, or a published article being retracted.
Authors of manuscripts reporting on original research should present an accurate account of the work performed, accompanied by an objective discussion of its significance. Underlying data should be represented accurately in the manuscript. The manuscript should contain sufficient detail and references to permit others to replicate the work. The fabrication of results and the making of fraudulent or knowingly inaccurate statements constitute unethical behavior and may be cause for rejection or retraction of a manuscript or published article.
