OPTIMAL TIME FOR REST DURING MOVEMENT ON THE CLIMBING TRACK

Abstract

The article presents result of year’s research in competitive rock-climbing with highqualifications in discipline “hard climbing”. Researches based on man’s efficiency indicates on differentstages of World’s Cup and World’s Championships during 2012–2018 years. To sum up, more than1100 individual starts on 53 big international tournaments was collected and analyzed. Differenttemporal and spatial climbing characteristics [9], has been studied, including pause’s influences onpassing results of short competitive track. Level of connection between time of the rest and resultmoderate R = 0,36, and highly significant p << 0,001. Correlation is logarithmic depend betweenhighly active growing in first half of the track and slightly growing in second one. In conclusion, mostof athletes (90 %) use 56 seconds long pauses (on tracks with 42 moves length) including grow of reststabilized and does not influence on the result. Pauses 30–40 seconds long further the way in the TopGroup. During researches regression model “rest time — result” was made. This model allows to findcomponent’s optimum and area. Model may be used only for short competitive tracks. This modelhelps in corrections of temporal and spatial climbing characteristics during training process andcalculate optimal indicate of rest pauses during making passing track tactical plan on internationalcompetition. The studies performed allowed us to establish the laws of connection between recoverytime and the result of passing a short competitive route. The degree of communication is moderate R= 0.36 and highly significant p = 2.3E-07. A regression model is constructed that allows calculatingthe optimum zone of the component depending on the length of the sports track. The research resultscan be used in preparation for international starts, as well as directly during the competition whendrawing up a tactical performance plan.